first surfing experience

I went to Bali for 5 days and I have tried a new sport, an obvious one because I posted the picture above. Of course, I wasn't as good as the posted picture, I wish I was,but, I just started and I am not sure when I am going to do it again. I went to the surfing school and had an hour of free lesson.Which includes on how to balance and 3 steps of standing the right way. Within an hour I was able to stand on the board in the pool. So, I headed to the beach to experience the high tide waves.

The current of the ocean was so dense that it kept pulling me further in. Battling with the waves and the ocean was tiring and my trainer kept asking me "capek nggak" which means..."are you tired" in indonesian. I just nodded because I was saving my breathe for the next couple of waves to come. After a few hours of paddling, the waves became stronger and bigger, at that time, my trainer told me that I could already pick my own waves and paddle by myself without his guide.

I was so ambitious, I took the big wave, and I could here him yelling "ombaknya besar tu" which meant "that is a big wave" I just tried, though I could stand about a minute, I fell half way, due to lack of balance, I struggled in the water while rolling in. I find it quite funny because I felt like a ball pushed by the ocean,surprisingly the salt water didn't taste as bad. When I finally could stand up, I was far away from the trainer and my board was about a meter and a half away from me. I was too lazy to go all the way to take the board so, I pulled the string that was attached to my leg and the board for (safety reasons)and head back to the ocean, again battling with the current.

I think I felt the achievement when I stood the whole way from the ocean to the shore. Felt good because I think I may have attracted attention to the by standers as they applauded and cheered a few times when I surfed to shore.